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Science of wicking beds

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What wicks best? (part 2)

1/6/2019

2 Comments

 
Two alternatives to using sand or gravel in the reservoir layer of a wicking bed are to use coarse organic material like straw or woodchips, or to just fill the whole wicking bed with soil and not have something different in the reservoir layer. I’ve done both and they both work.

Not having different material in the reservoir is the simplest way of making a wicking bed. One criticism of this approach is that, since some of the soil will always be saturated, that it will decompose anaerobically and get smelly. I filled a couple of wicking beds with a mix of potting mix and mushroom compost. They did not smell but after a couple of years the material in the bottom had decomposed to a black sludge. More recently I have been using a 50:50 mix of garden soil and compost and this seems to survive being saturated and is ok after at least three years.

I tested the wicking ability of small woodchips and three soil mixes in 50mm Perspex tubes.  The soil mixes were from Corkhill Bros in Mitchell. All three are various combinations of topsoil, sand, manure and compost. Super soil has the most topsoil and vegi mix is much more like potting mix. Garden mix is somewhere between these two.

The woodchips wicked water up 110mm so would be ok in a shallow reservoir layer. Of the soil mixes, super soil wicked up 260mm, garden mix 190mm, and vegi mix 95mm. The vegi mix has quite a few largish pieces of undecomposed woodchips and spaces around these in the narrow tube I was testing in may have hampered the wicking. All the soils would be more compacted in a wicking bed than they were in my tubes so this test may not be a fair indication of their wicking performance.

I was interested to try pure cocopeat. This is often used in hydroponic systems but I have not heard of it in wicking beds. I think it could work if soluble fertiliser was used in the water as it is in hydroponics. However, the wicking ability of cocopeat was not great. At 200mm it was better than the garden mix, but not as much as you would need for a 500mm deep wicking bed. Again, it might worked better if it was more compressed.

I’m beginning to wonder if a mix of sand and compost might be a good medium to use in wicking beds. Sand wicks well, and the compost would provide nutrients to the plants. More research needed…
2 Comments
Adam Grubb link
11/6/2019 08:54:27 am

Hi Chris,

Great to have you working on this! My business's first trial wicking bed back in 2005 was naively soil / compost all the way down and soon the lower layer stunk terribly and the plants failed dismally. The seedlings barely even got their roots down to the fully saturated layer, either! They grew very poorly and then got pest attacks, whereas in the neighbouring bed with no wicking and the same soil blend, they grew well (and had less subsequent pest attack).

When we get mushroom compost delivered after rain it has often turned anaerobic in the yard, just from the rain, and has a turpentiney smell. If it was totally submerged I suspect it would be much worse. But at the same time, I'll be watching your work with an open mind and am very interested that you have had success with a single medium as it would certainly simplify things.

One question, is the 10mm bluestone 'crushed gravel' screened or does it have a wide range of particle sizes? We see pretty good wicking with 7mm bluestone screenings. I also suspect that some of the moisture transfer is not via wicking, but by humidity -- evaporation and condensation through the air gaps in the medium. I wonder if this could be tested with somehow? With oven dried soil (or a sponge) at the top of a sealed container like in your experiments above the line of capillary action. Its weight before and after (at different temperatures?) could be measured maybe. Obviously that's something we could and probably should do ourselves, but putting it out there cheekily...

Anyway thanks so much for your work.

Reply
Chris Curtis
24/11/2019 11:30:00 pm

Hi Adam,

The 10mm gravel I tested was screened and all a pretty uniform size. I suspect that smaller gravel would work better and I'll try and find some 7mm screenings to test. My soils professor was sceptical that there would be sufficient moisture transfer through water vapour but it is something I think is worth testing.

The first beds I did with no separate reservoir material used a mix of cheap potting mix and mushroom compost and the saturated material did rot into an amorphous mass pretty quickly. However, I have just dug out a bed that had a mix of garden soil and compost all the way to the bottom. I have been growing in it for five or six years and only dug it out because the ag pipe (without a geotex sock) had become blocked with soil and roots and it was very slow to fill the bed. I think that much of the organic material in the bottom of the bed had decomposed, but the soil that was left had a great porous crumb structure and lots of roots in it. I would be happy to have a soil structure like that throughout my garden! I do let my beds dry out a fair bit between watering and this may held aerate the reservoir layer and preserve the soil structure in there.

There will be more results from my experiments posted soon!

Cheers,
Chris

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    Blog writer

    Chris is exploring how wicking beds work for a Charles Sturt University honours project. This blog reports on the findings of this original research.

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